The point
UK outdoor bouldering is edges. If your indoor diet is all volumes and coordination, grit will snap you in half — or more likely, just spit you off a V2. This block is about recruiting the fingers you already have, not becoming a competition specialist.
Rules
- Never train through sharp pain. Pump and ache are fine. Tweaks are not.
- Skin is a training quality. Tape, file, stop.
- Outdoor days replace the hard indoor session that week. Don’t double up.
Week shape
Day A — 40 minutes of open-hand and half-crimp repeats on a gym edge or board, easy volume, long rests. Day B — boulder session biased to small holds, stop two problems before you usually would. Day C — optional light hang on a big edge or just climbing easy circuits.
Progression
Week 1: learn the holds. Week 2: add a set. Week 3: slightly smaller edge or slightly longer repeat. Week 4: deload and go outside. That’s the programme. Fancy spreadsheets are optional; showing up on a Tuesday in Leek is not.