Why go
If you climb in Leek, The Roaches is the backyard crag. Upper and Lower Tier feel like two different venues: wind-scoured edges up top, slightly friendlier landings and a bit more shelter below. On a cold, dry winter day the friction is rude in the best way.
Conditions
Grit wants cold and dry. After rain give it a proper dry — not “it looks dry from the path.” Wind helps. Midsummer afternoons are greasy; go early or wait for a northerly. Check the live banner on the homepage, then still use your hands on the rock before you pull on.
Getting there
Park at the Roaches laybys off the road above Upper Hulme, not in passing places. Walk in is short. Don’t block farm access. The National Trust / Peak District access notes change with nesting and erosion — treat the moor like someone’s garden, because it is. Confirm on the BMC Regional Access Database before you travel.
Beta, not a ticklist
Start on the obvious lower-grade circuits before you jump on the named testpieces. Pads matter more than ego: landings are uneven, and a second pad is worth the walk. The Upper Tier in a crosswind will spit chalk out of your bag. Bring a brush, a smear of tape, and enough layers that you can sit still between goes.
What we’d pack
One full-size pad plus a slider if you have it, sticky rubber that still edges (not just indoor-soft), and chalk that isn’t baby powder. Coffee in Leek on the way home is part of the session. Wet? Peak Climbing Wall.